![]() The only thing I do once I make a recording is trim the beginning & end, manually remove clicks & large pops (software works like poo) and normalize to -3.0db using the peak function of measurement. I clean each record thoroughly with an Orbitrac 2 cleaning kit. Very simple and easy setup - all recording is done at 24/88.2. I am using a moded Rega P3 with CA arum Beta, incognito wiring into a Bellari tube phono into my M-Audio Delta 1010 (8 channel balanced version of the 2496) and recording using Sounforge 8 (or Live 6). I am now in the middle of my second journey through converting all my vinyl to digital using my PC, I have some things to help you with: ![]() There are plenty of CDs that don't top out at 0dBFS. Thus, once I have learned what levels generally work I leave them alone and just perform the next needle-drop.Īnother option is to leave the 6dB or so headroom and just burn the CD directly without changing the level. ![]() While a few argue that changing the volume digitally always has an effect on the sound, most agree that a boost or cut of 6 or so dB makes no difference in the sound, especially if one is recording with 24 bit resolution. The noise floor should remain the same in either method as the LP's background noise (however slight) will be greater than the inherent noise of the recording chain. The only downside is that you need to have monitored the entire side of the record (or at least know where the loudest parts are and have checked them) prior to beginning to record. I find this brings the best 'fidelity'.Ī great procedure, as long as my assumption is correct that the clipping you get is indeed very minor and inaudible. I prefer to set the record level so I get the odd, minor clip (once twice per record side, max), and leave the noise floor alone, so as little number crunching as humanly possible is done. Audacity is a good free bit of audio software that you can download and use if you would like something more user friendly. ![]() The results will be very good, although not as good as a better sound card.Ĭakewalk (now Sonar) is a bit overwhelming at first. Take these files and burn them to CD and you are done. Then edit out the beginning and tail silence, and divide the recorded file into tracks for the CD. Don't raise the volume on a per track basis as you loose the album side's coherency (the best is to record the entire LP and raise it all at once). There is no problem if you leave 6dB or so headroom as you can raise the volume later in Cakewalk.Īfter a side of the LP is recorded, raise the volume of the entire side up to just shy of OdBFS. Record at 44.1 16-bit, setting your record level not to go over 0dBFS during the loudest passage. Make sure to download the latest version from the website if you go this route.Ĭakewalk and Nero will do the job, even the older versions. The M-Audio Audiophile 2496 is a good choice excellent sound/value at $100.00. I don't want to spend crazy amount of money to do this but still want high quality results? Yes, I know.you get what you pay for. I was recommended to use M-Audio Audiophile 2496? Your thoughts? What about the software?Ĭurrently, I have Creative Sound Blaster Live (basic card) and have Nero and Cakewalk (I'll have to check the version but had it for over 6 years, without ever installing it on the PC) for softwares. Which sound card and software would be appropriate for this type of conversion on the computer? My turntable is Music Hall MMF-5 and I have Mission Cyrus 1 amp (which I still love to this day) so phono jack isn't an issue. The only thing I was asked to do as a favour for the record collection was to do create a number of CDs from some of the records and tracks. I just bought myself a used starter turntable as well as came upon a very large collection of excellent records. I'm brand new to this site and had posted the same question in the 'Entry Level' section but realized that this section would be more appropriate.
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